‘I am taking the train to Toulouse. Does it leave from this platform ?’ I ask the female guard at Narbonne.
‘Ah, oui,’ she replies. ‘D’ici. Quinze minutes.’
‘Do I have time to go and get a coffee ?’
‘Non, non. Restez ici,’ she says shaking her head emphatically.
We are both speaking French.
We understand each other perfectly.
Phew !
I’m out of Spain and able to communicate once more.
Such a relief !
Mine is the business of verbal communication. Being unable to converse is, for me, almost physically unbearable.
I managed in Spain, but in a very limited way. Here in France I may stumble and stutter but I’ll get there.
On the train from Narbonne I rock and roll my way to the dining car for a snack and make my first French mistake.
There is a list of available ‘sambweedges’. The chicken, lettuce and mayo one is called a ‘Fermier’.
When the snack bar man finally permits eye-contact I say,
‘Je voudrais un Fermier s’il vous plait ?’
All perfectly correct, except that I have asked for a ‘farmer’ - as opposed to the ‘farmer sandwich’.
With a huge grin he asks me if I would like a big one or a small one. His mate from the rail company who is leaning on the bar joins him in the joke as they look at me and crack up laughing.
I finally twig and tell him I would prefer a small one, thanks very much, and in a sandwich.
If this had happened in Spain I would not have had a clue what was going on.
All my romantic notions of train travel have finally been put to bed.
On board the train from Barcelona to Narbonne the first thing you notice is the overpowering stench of toilet disinfectant. It’s like travelling with your head in the men’s urinal.
The second thing you notice is that there is a guy in the seat across the aisle who is already snoring quite loudly even before the train has left the station.
He did not stop snoring all the way to Narbonne.
I believe he is still somewhere snoring.
All praise the i-pod !
Although you could still hear him between tracks.
The train is a marginally more relaxed mode of travel than flying and you do get to see a lot of very pretty scenery out the window. But you have to heft your luggage everywhere with you. Up and down stairs and escalators.
Bump, bump, bump down the steps goes the one, heavy suitcase I have restricted myself to on this 3 month trip.
Lug, lug, lug, up we thump again.
‘C’est ma maison entiere,’ I say to the one or two kind people who have helped me.( ‘It’s my whole house’).
‘Comme an escargot,’ one replied. (‘Like a snail.)’
Then you have to stuff your case into the luggage rack and watch it like a hawk for the rest of the trip.
If you’re lucky your seat will face the way the train is going, if not you travel backwards.
My three days in Toulouse were great fun.
I stayed with my Australian friend Tory McBride.
Her Frenchman (Tory hates the word ‘partner’ with good reason), Lionel (pronounced Lee-oh-nel - which is so much nicer than the way we say it), speaks about as much English as I do French but we did really well.
Toulouse is a charming town with a great history, a beautiful basilica, several universities plus hordes of students, a wide river and a canal which is a great marvel of construction.
Tory and Lionel treated me royally. Taking me out to dinner to a Morrocan restaurant for cous-cous on the first night, and a Catalonian-style restaurant on the second. On my final night we ate in, feasting on foie-gras and divine cheeses from the local market.
However.
I learned that it is a very Australian thing to go overboard and exaggerate in praise of things.
Only God is ‘divine’ maintained Lionel, as he endeavoured to teach me the art of French understatement.
If you think something is really-o, trully-o, fabuloso it is sufficient to say that it was ‘pas mal’ - ‘not bad’ - and this must be articulated with the minimum of passion and a flat inflection.
This was hard to put into practise in Toulouse where everything is pretty special.
Strolling through the market gazing at displays of fish, cheeses, wheels of sausages, skewers of frogs’ legs, mountains of weird and wonderful crustaceans, was like strolling through an art gallery !
My camera was going off !
In a glass case display opposite ‘La Maison d’Agneau’ – the House of Lamb – my eye was caught by a dish of thick, dark red, slices of liver.
I won’t eat calamari or tuna mornay but I love liver….
But this was horse liver.
This was an entire stand of horse meat.
You know that expression ‘I could eat a horse’ ? Well, in Toulouse, you can.
Jars of the local speciality, ‘cassoulet’, tubs of duck-fat, mounds of ‘rillet’ (duck pâte) and then the mustard-coloured vacuum packs of the famously controversial foie-gras itself.
‘Betty’s Creamerie’ displayed case after case of different kinds of cheeses - big wheels and small mounds.
Hard for me to resist a heart-shaped Neufchatel the size of the palm of your hand.
Hard to resist any food at all in France.
I kept saying, ‘There is no bad food in France. Even the fast-food is exquisite’. French folks beg to differ, but they haven’t eaten in a truck-stop on the Hume lately.
I didn’t use the computer much in Toulouse. Partly because the ‘wee-fee’ on my laptop wouldn’t work, but mainly because the keyboard on French computers has the letters in a completely different configuration !!!
It was like learning to speak Russian !
The numbers and the full-stop require the shift-key. The @ sign requires a science degree to execute.
I’m in the little town of Fitilieu today, just outside Lyon. Staying with my cousin Caroline Vignard and her French husband Michel.
Once again poor Michel, like Lionel in Toulouse, will be forced to sit politely while two women gasbag in English for hours on end.
Their rambling farmhouse is in a beautiful part of the countryside, surrounded by the snow-capped French Alps.
Tomorrow I go in to Grenoble where Caroline works occasionally.
The speed limit is 130 kph on French freeways.
This could be my Last Post….
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